2018 Dalla Cia Chardonnay - from Stellenbosch to Eindhoven with Michelin’s Best Young Chef 2019
““The blind ambition of understanding the quality and value that South African wines carry, has been the drive behind seeing those wine placed in suitable establishments, where Chefs and Sommerliers appreciate and value the dining experience of their guests. This is an example of one fine dining restaurant with dishes curated by the Michelin Best Young Chef 2019 Cas Pikaar, and winelist by Rudd”. The detailed pairing menu is listed below and the 2018 Dalla Cia Chardonnay paired comfortably.””
The Full Article
Cas Pikaar has been named the most talented young chef 2020 in the Netherlands by Michelin, a choice that we fully support. Can tell you that he lives up to this. In our opinion he is no less inferior to his teachers, impressive!
The name of the restaurant now adorns the facade. After the necessary corona intermezzo and a warm welcome from the owner we sat down at “our” table at the window.
As an aperitif a fresh Wild Rock Sauvignon from New Zealand that was very good. Next to it an amuse duo. On a spoon a bombe filled with mousse of smoked eel in a barbecue vinaigrette, on top a macaroon of beetroot filled with ginger sorbet ice cream, next to it a piece of eel. A real taste bomb, wow!
On a glass box a waffle of puffed rice on which preparations of green curry and coconut are finished with a dot of citrus gel with a sprig of coriander. Excellent texture with nice full flavors.
On a wooden egg a tartlet filled with a spicy mango salad covered with a lumpy sauce of old Reypenaer with pieces of salted lemon and algae powder, surprisingly delicious with a layered taste experience.
The first accompanist was neatly presented by the sommelier who is now fully trained. Terre di Fuocaia L'Albareale 2017 by Roberto Lucarelli made from native Albanella supplemented with wood-aged Pinot Noir (25%). Good acids with pleasant minerality and wood touch. The chef himself presented the dish. Three slices of home smoked Norwegian salmon with pieces of dried tomato, tomato sambal and merengues of savora mustard, gelled tomato in between, finished with Doyy caviar, borage flowers and basil oil. The salmon was super soft and high in taste, the garnish provided a taste experience. The wine fitted nicely, a great start. (8.75)
From Azerbaijan the Traminer 2018 from Savalan that was slightly more elegant and slimmer than the Alsace Gewürztraminer. From the kitchen a sleek presentation “Foie brûlée”. A thick slice of foie gras terrine prepared with Chinese “five spices” finished with seared muscovado sugar and crispy muesli. Surrounded by a thin ring of beet cream that was filled at the table with a delicious vinaigrette based on star anise. These are those flavor combinations that make me completely happy, wow. The wine remained upright and complemented the dish with its aroma, compliments. (9.25)
From Austria a Neuland Welschriesling by Herbert Zillinger, fresh and juicy with notes of stone fruit. From the kitchen an improved signature dish “Coquille Osaka-style” with compact presentation. Four half-baked, scalloped scallops in a beurre blanc of dashi with pumpkin foam, a hint of wasabi and nori crisps. The whole was finished with a shellfish reduction, bonito flakes, coriander cress and zest of lime. A pleasure to spoon away, beautiful textures, full flavors and enchanting umami touch. The wine complemented the dish with its round acids. (9)
From Stellenbosch a Chardonnay 2018 by Dalla Cia made in a fresh rich style. On a brown plate a thick, crispy brown baked Dutch turbot fillet on a bed of roasted cauliflower florets in a mousseline sauce seasoned with vadouvan and lovage, with slices of white grape with dots of citrus gel and cubes of smoked eel. A top executed classic preparation with full flavors and juicy textures. The wine fitted seamlessly, enjoy! (9)
For the pièce a special Rioja crianza 2015 from Navajas, not from the usual Tempranillo but from the Graciano, powerful with fresh notes of black fruit and pleasant spiciness. From the kitchen the Geuldallam tasting, a very nice presentation built from separate components. Piece of saddle with a piece of crispy baked sweetbread on it, piece of neck with a slightly crispy baked fat cap and a bombe filled with stew from the shoulder. With diced lumpy foam from Manchego, tufts of apple gel made with aceto, roasted silver onion, artichoke and chanterelles, finished at the table with a strongly reduced lamb sauce. Fine cuissons, very nice pure flavors that you could combine to your heart's content with the powerful flavors of the garnish. The wine complemented the dish with its acidity and spiciness, great class! (9.5)
To conclude, a very powerful espresso with four tasteful friandises.
Service was excellent in a very nice atmosphere. The sommelier is now fully incorporated and in his element. The chef himself presented his dishes in detail, fine.
We can say that we are quite impressed, beautiful plate presentations of classic preparations ingeniously combined with Asian influences, a lot of taste experience and taste explosions. All this (still) at prices at Bib level. They move on to the number 1 position of Eindhoven for me. Thanks!
Written by Bib Gourmand, www.Eet.nu